India 2011

I am back

2011-10-06T23:58:00.001-07:00

Back in India! Yesterday we drove 255 kilometers from Rishikesh to Joshimath. It took 10.5 hours! --- More on that later

We start our first 5 day trek in a few moments. It is magnificently gorgeous here. Absolutely Breath taking.

Jai Ma Durga, Nanda Devi here we come!

Caught blogging

2010-09-18T06:09:00.002-07:00

At a festival celebration Indian women pulled me into their Greek like ball change dance cirlce

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See you soon

2010-09-18T05:32:00.002-07:00

Rakesh watched out the window for falling rocks. Suddenly he yelled in Hindi, the driver floored it and the slide covered the road behind us. Rocks bounced off the roof as we sped away

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Traffic Jam

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Shiva and Durga protection

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I was stuck behind this Wonder Bread truck forever

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Drive thru Temple

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> I've been sitting in the jeep on the side of the road for 1 1/2
> hours. Every 20 minutes or so we drive about 100 feet and then stop
> again. The driver just pulled down a video screen from the ceiling
> and a typical bollywood movie is playing. I guess it's a mountain
> traffic jam. Mangal, the driver, barely speaks English. I'm covered
> in road dust and feel like I smoked a carton of diesel fuel filled
> cigarettes.
>
> I woke up this morning at 4am to go to the Vishnu temple. We tried
> to go last night but it closed just as we were about to make it to
> the front of the line.
> This morning Maria and I ran thru the narrow winding streets trying
> our hardest to get to temple when it opened at 4. The plan was to
> go to temple and be in the car for 5:30 so we could get in line to
> make the 6am gate and hit the road. It took us 2 days to drive from
> rishikesh to badrinath. I am trying to make it back to rishikesh in
> one day.
> When we arrived at the festival style lit temple it was 4:45 and
> puja was still happening inside so we were not permitted to enter
> the inner sanctum. We joined the line on the stairs which quickly
> became a very intense mosh pit. People were pushing from all sides.
> Once again demonstrating the Indian perception of space.
>
> 3 hours - -- 2 kilometers. I have finished my book, meditated,
> mantra, done every seated asana I can think of and is possible in
> the back seat of this land rover thing, and completed a sudoko.
>
> 4 hours.
>
> After being shoved for God at our temple attempt we dashed back to
> the ice box ashram. I quickly began bringing the backpacks
> downstairs when all of a sudden I heard running water in the
> bathroom and the bucket sliding across the floor. I barked at Maria,
> "You're taking a bucket!!?" I immediately realized how hysterical
> this was and laughed to myself as she bargained with me behind the
> door for her right to cleanliness.
> Way too much action at this time of day and at this altitude!
> We made the 6 am gate and had spectacular peak sightings as we left
> Badrinath.
> We had planned to stop at the hanuman temple on the way down, but we
> were trying to make it 120k to Karna Prayag by noon.... That's 6
> hours to travel 75 miles.
> Spiraling down to the orange temple signifying the site where
> Hanuman picked up the mountain to bring herbs to his lord Ram, we
> agreed to stop but only for a a quick pranam.
> The driver pulled up to the road side temple and before we could get
> out the priest came to us with the puja tray. We rolled down the
> windows, made our offerings and recieved orange tilaks (forehead
> flair) without even getting out of the car! Jai Hanuman
> We reached Karna Prayag as planned and sadly said our goodbyes. A
> car was waiting to take me south to Rishikesh, Maria was to continue
> on in our car to go east for a few days.
> As I drove away waving out the window to Maria and Rakesh, I was
> reminded of the end of our last adventure together in India. We left
> one another at a train station, she went south and I went west.
>
> I reached Rishikesh 11 hours later. 17 hours total. The very end of
> the road came 6k from Rishikesh. Another landslide. After an hour
> Mangal woke me up and handed me his cell phone. Pankaj to the
> rescue. I hiked past the landslide in the dark with my belongings
> and was met by PK and a new driver. Mangal was to spend the night in
> the car, waiting until the morning for the road to be cleared.
> We arrived at the ram jhula bridge, PK got his scooter and delivered
> me safely to Raj Palace. Home sweet home.
> Best shower of my life!
>
> I'm in Chicago now. It was nice to brush my teeth with water from
> the faucet but I am already home sick for India. Counting the days
> until I return. PK rode with me to the airport after serving me
> lunch in his warm and loving home. Best guide guru you'll ever meet.
> I've got family in India that I will miss dearly.
> Come with me next year as I co-lead the Rishikesh adventure with Ms.
> Maria. It's sure to be unforgettable!
> Thanks for coming along on my pilgrimage to the heart land!!
> Om Namah Shivaya
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone

Indo-Tibetan chefs

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Can you imagine!! Lazy lady

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Take a ride

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Wasudhara Falls: purification

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Best Tulsi tea ever!

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Mana, last village in India. Almost in Tibet

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Morning Peaks!

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Morning shave

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Mountain village

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Karna Prayag

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Rudra Prayag

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Deva Prayag

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Fun storming the castle

2010-09-18T03:06:00.000-07:00

Destination: Badrinath, home to the Vishnu temple, one of the four most sacred temples in north India

Maria and I wound up 11 thousand feet into the 'higher himalyas' very slowly as the one lane road literally crumbled underneath us and the air quickly became thinner and colder. Rakesh and the driver upfront, Maria and I in the back. Our packs and carom board in the way back. The road to Badrinath, has been closed for days due to landslides and unstable ground. Today the road was very busy escorting hundreds of pilgrims making possibly the trip of a lifetime. Collectively, we form a Spiritual tailgate party, all of us journeying to a common destination. During landslide breaks We shared the road with buses transporting whole villages and cars/land rovers packed with families. Our rover has 4 people, others hold 9-12. No one seems to mind being held up on the side of the road for hours at a time. The scenery is amazing and the vibe is high, some guy walks by singing 'Hari Krishna' as Maria and Rakesh play carom board and thumb wrestle. I read my book and referee the carom board tournament. Rakesh always wins.

Points on driving in India...

The horn is a vital part of driving in India. It isn't used out of annoyance or anger but rather safety and awareness. 'Blow Horn' is painted on the rear of brightly decorated and deity donned trucks. Passing, or 'taking over' happens consistetly and without inducing any road rage or ego inflation. Playing music in the car is illegal as it is a distraction and could drown out the sound of oncoming cars, buses, trucks, cows and monkeys.

Our illegal soundtrack includes Shakira (Rakeshs' request!) Beyonce (Maria's) Jack Johnson, Bob Marley, Michael Franti, Madonna and more.

We arrived in Badrinath a day later than expected. The roads close after dark so we had to stay the night in Karna Prayag. A prayag is a confluence of two rivers. We passed five on our journey. The rivers weave into each other, ultimately they all join with the Ganga. The rivers have different hues, depending on where they are flowing from. The glacial rivers have a bluish green tint. The rivers coming from the west/east have more of a clay base so they look darker and cloudy. Watching them merge is beautiful.

It has taken us 13 hours to travel 118 miles! It's freezing rain here in Badrinath. We are absolutely the only Westerners here. I'm am very ill equipt with my thin fleece sleeping bag. I am wearing all of the clothes that I brought! The roof of the ashram room has a gaping hole in it, basically, we are sleeping outside. It's 38 degrees.

The next morning brought sunshine and the darshan of Mount Neelkanth (shiva's blue throat). The view of this peak at sunrise is truly breath taking. No one has ever climbed this massive mountain. We spent the day trekking to Wasudhara waterfall. 14 k stroll up into the clouds, surrounded by Himalyan peaks.

The legends and mythology of India and her pantheon come to life every moment. On this hike we walked the 'path to heaven'. We followed the path that the 5 Pandava brothers (Mahabarata) climbed on their way to release, signifying the end of the Satyuga beginning of the Kaliyuga. The waterfall is named after one of the brothers. Legend has it that if the spray from the falls reaches you then you are pure.

While practicing yoga the breeze came and showered me (and Rakesh) with the mist. Maria climbed down to sit close to the falls, she brought her umbrella. Funny.

We sat and meditated in the cave where Vyassa spoke the Vedas. And then in Ganesha's cave where he transcribed the Vedas. Epic places and experiences. I'm blessed to have spent time in the north eastern most part of this sacred country. I even went to the 'last tea stand in india'. The Tibetans are beautiful. The days spent here have been monumental. Too much for words. The lessons for me are in the land, not the swamis.

Thumb wars during landslide

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Badrinath!!!!!!!!!

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Road Signs

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This is a highway not a runway

Drinking and driving is a fatal cocktail

Spread thrills not kills

Life is a journey - complete it

No race No rally enjoy the beauty of the valley

Leave sooner drive slower live longer

Speed thrills but kills

Life is short don't make it shorter

Speed is a knife which kills life

License to drive not fly

Accidents bring tears Safety brings cheers

Hug your kids at home at home but belt them in the car

Blessings

Maria Garre
www.mariagarre.com

Sent from my iPhone

Rice paddy hill side

2010-09-12T23:24:00.001-07:00

The jewelers and school founders

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Pass the Aarti lamp!

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Driving in India should be a video game

2010-09-12T22:07:00.001-07:00

My Grandmother educated me well about the importance of healthy
bowels. I think the cows here eat too much curry. Although, seeing
Maria step in it never gets old. It is quite an experience; It seems
like you've taken a normal step but all of a sudden you are launched
ahead as if on a slip and slide. Before you know it you are three
steps ahead of yourself. I guess it's helpful if you're in a hurry!
Lots of folks on the trip have received 'cosmic counseling' from this
one particular 'Swami'. This swami happens to love Facebook, charges
$50 and then recommends you buy a certain gem stone of which he then
recieves a commission. There is value to his counsel I am sure, but I
passed on the offer. But Facebook can't be an indicator of a fake
swami. The real swami at the ashram next door is an avid FB'er. How
does one even become a Swami? Is it like being knighted? Is there an
exam?...some kind of aptitude test? I'll have to ask Rakesh or PK.
We have gone on some great hikes Yesterday we drove 4 hours and hiked
4k up a 75% grade to reach a temple for Hanuman that has great views
of several peaks. The clouds obscured the peaks but it was beautiful
to be IN the clouds.
Maria and I leave tomorrow for our trek north to Badrinath, we have
been Praying for peaks, sunshine and blue skies! We are going to the
last tea stall in India.
I just spent 20 minutes trying to get tumeric for my Ginger lemon tea
(which actually isn't tea, it's literally Ginger, lemon and honey in
hot water) How does an Indian not understand the word tumeric!!! It
will be a miracle if I don't get sick. Everyone except for my
roommate Natalie and I have had a fever and respiratory infection.
I'm taking ao many herbs and vitamins to counter all of the time spent
in a car with sick people every day.
Driving back from wherever we were yesterday it was pouring rain as we
wound down the mountain. There were landslides that happened while we
were up top. It looked like a completely different road/ path on the
way down. We were having sing alongs to old school Prince and Madonna
in our car. I know every single word to multiple Prince songs. I was
shocked and others were impressed. Thanks Suzanne! The second car
didn't have as much fun. They almost skidded off the road, their
accelerator broke and they nearly hit a mule.
We had our closing dinner last night on the rooftop. I tasted the
absolute worst dessert in the entire universe. It was a white sponge-
like, sugar liquid soaked/filled ball. If you ever see anything like
this nasty mass of goo give it to the nearest cow and run.
Maria and I are off the the mountains for the next 5 days. Pray for
blue skies and peaks!!!!

Sent from my iPhone

Aarti lamps

2010-09-12T09:20:00.000-07:00

Last night of Ganga aarti

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2010-09-12T05:37:00.000-07:00

Buckets are important

2010-09-12T02:59:00.000-07:00

My favorite part of breakfast is the white toast with butter served at
the Ashram. I don't know why it's so good or what they so to it, but
it is incredible. Would you believe out of all the chapadi, naan and
parathas, that the best bread I've had is white toast with butter,
"butter toast". It's either because I haven't had white bread in
years or because they put some kind of goddess fairy dust on it.
Buckets are important. Very important. I do my laundry in my bucket,
throw the TP in a bucket (advice from Amy: don't confuse the
buckets). When cooking, the bucket is your vegetable washer, your
compost pile, and hand washer. A smaller bucket replenishes water to
this large bucket. It took Rakesh 3 hours to cook dinner on his two
burner propane stove. Absolutely everything was made from scratch.
Pakoras and chapadi from wheat flour and water. Garlic & Ginger made
into a paste using a rolling pin. Potatoes, rice and dal are cooked in
a pressure cooker, done in 3 whistles! Tomatoes are placed directly on
the flame and then in the bucket, then peeled and smushed by hand. I
learned another (uncooked) tomato purée method in cooking class with
PK's wife ... use a grater, everything but the skin ends up grated
as if it just came out of food processor. The vegetables are all fresh
and local. If it isn't growing here, you aren't eating it.

Sent from my iPhone

Hanuman hanuman hanuman!

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Puja in the pit. Milk and water soaked bum

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Awesome sound system!

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Good Ideas

2010-09-12T01:58:00.000-07:00

Making jewelry, I'm taking orders!!

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Rakesh cooking awesome dinner in simple dwelling

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Temple under construction

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Shiva lingam. This temple is @ 9 thousand feet. We hiked 4k at a 75• grade to reach it.

2010-09-11T21:47:00.000-07:00

Temples Temples Temples

2010-09-11T21:41:00.001-07:00

I realized today amount of steps that I have taken since I arrived in
India is greater than the amount I have taken since I broke my foot
in January.
The last couple of days we have gone to some amazing Shiva temples.
These temples tell the stories that I have read and told and loved.
The kankal temple tells the story of Shiva and Pavarti, her suicide
and his anguish. The temple is built around the fire pit upon which
she threw herself.

This is also the birth place of goddess Sati. (incarnation of Parvati)
The Chandresvara temple is where Shiva visited Chandra to grant his
request that he be with Shiva always, hence the portrayal of the
crescent moon on Shiva's head. We had a huge puja there. Puja galore.
With a really hot Vedic preist. The ceremony was about 2 1/2 hours.
After Maria anointed, baathed and dressed the murtis we gathered
around the lingam for Rudrabhisekh puja... Basically this means BIG
Shiva Puja. Lots of detailed ritual. My seat positioned me at the
drain on the lingam, so as it was bathed in milk, ghee, water,
sandalwood paste, flowers etc... So was I. Sandlwood paste and
flowers, great. Milk and water, ick. By the end I was sitting in a
puddle of whitish water. Yuck, but holy yuck I suppose.

Chandra Devi temple is like an amusemnt park and depicts the ten
incarnations of Sati. We rode a gondola up to the temples! Its
located in one of the national parks so the greenery was vast and
beautiful. Deer and monkey siting in the ride up and spectacular
sunset on the way down. Rakesh threw down with a puja offering
vendor because she was trying to cheat us out of some money.
His chest got very puffy, it was comical.
I played catch with a monkey at the Anjenay temple (hanuman's mom)
I tossed a coconut and a monkey came swooping in and caught it. Most
of the monkeys are about the same size. This was the king kong monkey.
I was handing the normal size monkeys treats when he came out of the
brush barreling toward me. I threw my coconut and retreated with a hop
and a skip. He jumped up, caught my coconut and took off. It was
hilarious.

The NeelKanth temple which is situated where Shiva took refuge after
he drank the poison from the churning of the ocean. Pavratri gathered
everyone to support and cheer him and then festival shivatri was
created.
Lovely day !!!

Sent from my iPhone

Jai Hanuman!

2010-09-11T04:39:00.000-07:00

Puppies

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Blue for Amy

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River is rising

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Strong swimmer, he made it!

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Look closely

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Maria's new mala

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PK and his daughter

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Very serious about "carom" board

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Rikesh the swimmer!

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Prom pics....where are you Tracy!

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Very refreshing mist

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Waterfall girls

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Breakfast at ashram

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Lost in downtown Rishikesh

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The plan was for the group to meet at the taxi stand at 11:30. I was
to be driven by scooter by the tailor from his shop to the taxi.
By the time I arrived at the taxi stand there was not a person from
the group in sight.
I figured they'd left without me so I jumped in an auto-rickshaw with
3 Indians and requested to be dropped in Rishikesh Proper. By the time
I was directed to "Get Out" there were 12 Indians stuffed in with me.
I have an excellent sense of direction so it was in that moment I
realized that I had no idea where I had just come from. I don't even
know in what part of town I am staying! Ram Jhula bridge oughtta do it
I supposed.
I walked alllll over Rishikesh and never found the group. Come to find
out they left ten minutes after me. Better the way it worked out
because they were all clawing over each other for saris at the shop.
I strolled around and bought bindis, copper bowls and cups instead. I
took a rickshaw back to 'ram jhula' for 5 rupees and shared the ride
with 13 Indians.
I was very well recieved upon my arrival back home in Shwagashram (I
did some research and now know where I am staying). Everyone is in the
know around here. I didn't get more than 20 steps over the bridge
before some kid was handing me a phone saying "Pankaj, Pankaj" PK was
beside himself for having lost me.
Whatever, I was over it and was starving and knew exactly what I wanted.
Back at Raj Palace I ordered a veggie burger, which i swear is a bunch
of left overs pressed into a delicious patty, and finger
crisps....french fries. Orange French fries the color of Cheetos fried
in mustard oil. I have no idea why they are orange but they are so so
good, they actually taste like potatoes. I ordered my coca cola- glass
bottle, and was brought pepsi. Unacceptable. The young waiter actually
went and bought me a coke across the street. It was in a plastic
bottle but I drank it anyway.
India is good.

Today I ate yak cheese and taught an Indian to swim

2010-09-07T22:38:00.000-07:00

We went for a hike up to a huge double waterfall.
It was a beautiful sunny HOT day! I've never gone swimming in a
waterfall, it was awesome. Our guide Rikesh jumped in and sank like a
skinny Indian. We taught him the breast stroke and the doggie paddle.
Hysterical. He just kept sinking! The current made a mix of a
whirlpool and a draw downstream which led to certain death. He
eventually figured out the kick movement and screamed, "I'm swimming",
and then sank.
On the way back thru laksman jhula we stopped at the German bakery for
pizza, beacause everyone knows the Germans make great pizza, right?
It sucked. Elios frozen pizza Is probably better.
They tricked me too. I ordered the capsicum pizza, no capsicum on hand
so they substituted none other than the green devil. Ich. Green pepper
pizza with with yak cheese, a nightmare.
We went home and played karem board, (I know I'm spelling that wrong)
which is a pool/ air hockey hybrid board game that I am definitely
going to have to find in the USA.

I fees these puppies every day

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A cow picture of a picture on my camera

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At the waterfall after an awesome hike

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Answers to questions

2010-09-07T02:31:00.003-07:00

Emergency Number in India = 108 Seriously

I didn't have enough hair on my legs for waxing, I think that is a good thing!!

The children

2010-09-06T21:14:00.001-07:00

Yesterday we had morning meditation on the Ganga. I gazed at the river so long that when I looked up at the clouds they were moving sideways opposite each other the way the river. Our guide friend Rikesh says she has 80 different currents.

I slept thru meditation this morning but I hear someone went floating by while they were meditating. Operation Ganga rescue was quicky enacted. Scarves tied together served as the rope to lasso and tow him in. Most indians don't learn how to swim and are afraid of the water.

Ok, back to yesterday. Yoga sadhana and breakfast. The group walked together to Lakshman Jhula which is another part of Rishikesh. This 'side' is the place where the party happens and where you are most likely to find contraband such as alcohol and meat. Hashish is everywhere, for example, this morning one of the guys sitting/squatting outside the ashram was enjoying a little wake and bake with his chillum.

We went to the HoneyHut restaurant and had REAL coffee (as opposed to Nescafe) and delicious vanilla ice cream.... Made from local, and I mean really local cows, with honey on top.

Laksman Jhula is full of westerners so there is more shopping, they take credit cards... and you can show your shoulders.

This side also seems to be a gathering ground for Trekkers. There are lots of gear shops and lots of Nepalese goods. I took a Taxi back from LJ to Sanskriti for another massage and then strolled back to the hotel. Maria and I did our usual speed walk and talk on the way home with the added effect of maneuvering around cows.

Our group was invited to our favorite jewelry/deity shop owners, Suneil, Govind and Madhar's home for dinner. (actually it was Govind's home but his two brothers were there). Govind's wife prepared the best meal we have had yet. Super awesome chippatis!

We brought the school supplies that we had purchased for the children. Govind has created a foundation called Jayatri, which means 'awareness'. It is a school for the local children that can't afford an education. Many of the children's parents work in the ashram. The Parmath Neektan ashram is humongous and the hub of the town. All of the homeless people and all of the cows are fed by the ashram.

The children were precious. They had learned English songs and greetings. They were all dressed up and full of excitement. We gave the supplies that we brought, they quickly stuffed the pencils in their pockets. It was heart wrenching. I'll write more later about how to support this foundation.

Children at a school a friend here in india is funding.

2010-09-06T04:56:00.000-07:00

Om Namah!!!

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Homa

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I'm stalking him

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Making papadan

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Indian Santa?

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Sharpening knives

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Ganga Arati

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5pm Saturday
Maria had Vedic priests come bless our opening ceremony. They chanted
vedic prayers, gave us each a tilak with rice stuck in it (lots of
forehead flair!) and tied red string around our wrists as we entered
the yoga practice space.
After a short practice we prepared for Ganga Arti (are y'all googling
these terms?). This ceremony is performed nightly on the ghat (steps
into Ganga) directly facing the enormous Shiva murti (statue of
deity). Hundreds of people gather each evening to honor Ma Ganga. Our
group of 13 was led to a corner of the roof covered temple. The priest
had just begun the homa (fire ceremony), we all quickly took seats
around the firepit. While chanting he passed around a copper pot
(chester) with Ganga water to be poured into our cupped hands, next
came rice. At the end of his bhajan we offered rice to the pit and he
lit the fire. More forehead flair, flowers were then placed in our
hands, after a blessing, the flowers were put along the frame of the
pit. Next, hand size palm leaf baskets were passed around. Cow dung
and sticks. The priest began chanting the gayatri and other mantras.
At the end of each mantra we chanted "swaha", he poured ghee on the
flames and we tossed the clump of dung and sticks that we held pressed
to our hearts into the fire.
After homa we moved to the main part of the temple for kirtan We had
reserved seating behind the singers, directly in front of Shiva.
At night Shiva is lit up and you can see every detail of his
magnificence.
I recieved serious darshan from that carved piece of marble. An
experience that will stay with me for a very long time.
I also was treated to the full spectrum of emotions, from anger to
bliss, to tears, humility and surrender. India is like that, she will
hold and nourish you but also shake you to your core, strip you
completely bringing you to your knees and then cradle you. Crazy shit
happens here. If you are looking for healing, transformation, and
creation then come to India.
There was a film crew at the ceremony that taught me a valuable
lesson. Rude american actors danced inappropriately obscuring
eveyone's view, the man filming was constantly bouncing in and out of
the sacred center of the ceremony. I oscillated between contempt and
surrender. My racing mind pulled me out of the beauty repeatedly. How
could they accept such privilege and not have had the respect to
prepare, to study and to not violate the sacred traditions! How could
I be so irritated in such an amazing space! I was creating my own
suffering. Ultimately whatever these people were filming would expose
people to this amazing spiritual culture and it's worth the sacrifice.
My gaze was so fixed on Shiva that when interrupted by the film folks,
I simply closed my eyes and there he was, seared onto my mind's eye,
my soul.
We lit a ghee soaked wick in a palm basket of flowers and set it, with
our intentions down the Ganga. Standing knee deep in her I knew I had
to go all the way in. I fell back and let her hold me. When I came up
from the water what else could have possibly happened than the camera
dude being right in my face asking if he could use the footage in his
movie 'valley of the flowers'. Come on! Hysterical. I said yes. I
could barely speak, being so overwhelmed with emotion from my plunge.
He asked me to speak into the camera my name and that I give
permission .....yada yada yada.
What a night!

Sent from my iPhone

2 questions

2010-09-04T21:18:00.001-07:00

Can you guess the emergency number for India? Winner gets a mala

Should I get waxed (legs) for the first time here in India?!

Sent from my iPhone

Luggage

2010-09-04T20:42:00.000-07:00

I want this soooo badly!

2010-09-04T07:31:00.001-07:00

COCA COLA

2010-09-04T03:26:00.000-07:00

I just drank a REAL coca cola..no fuctose.. from a glass bottle. I FEEL AMAZING!!!
My new morning beverage, since the coffee here is terrible.. and we all know real yogis don't drink coffee, they drink COKE!!
Off to the opening ceremony now!
Say Hello to Earl for me!!
xoxo

View from the purple cave

2010-09-04T03:23:00.000-07:00

Have a coke and a smile! And some malas and some rings and...

2010-09-04T03:21:00.001-07:00

Madness!!! Making jewelry!

2010-09-04T03:21:00.000-07:00

Cow pile!

2010-09-04T03:20:00.000-07:00

2010-09-04T03:17:00.001-07:00

5pm
Maria and the gang have arrived! I joined their rooftop dinner closing ceremony. It felt great to have a full meal.... And with company!
Their trekking journey sounds amazing, I look forward to Maria and I exploring our way to Badrinath temple next week.
Jeffery, Maria, Sarah, and Chanel all went to PK's to get our cyber fix. It felt like we had been transported directly from Kripalu to the banks of the Ganga!
Kitty (Maria) and I stayed up blabbing until 12:30 am. At least i dont smell like an indian today... Good call bringing the 'real' deodorant!!!
I slept but woke up at 4am, Restless until 6:30... Waiting for yoga at 7... Next thing I know it is 12:30 pm Ahhhhhhhhh. Damn the purple cave!!!
I swear Maria put me in here so I would be greeted by her larger than life banner everytime I open the door!!!

2010-09-04T03:13:00.001-07:00

3:27am
That is what time I woke up today. I could not go back to sleep. For 4 hours I tossed and turned and debated whether to blame my sleeplessness on my princess and the pea mattress, the pillow of steal, or the Chinese water torture drip madness coming from te bathroom.
Eventually I got up, stuffed a towel in the sink, and grabbed my travel pillow, which I had to put in a pillowcase because it has smelled like donkey poo since the man carried my stuff in his wagon thingy.
PK called at 10 wondering why I wasn't at his office yet. He has kept a close eye on me, insisting on escorting me everywhere. Evidentally, Maria threatened to kill him if anything happened to me. Hysterical.
I went downstairs to 'take' breakfast. Cheese paratha and banana porridge. Ewww. So much milk! I've been told to try the nutella banana pancakes. Maybe tomorrow.
It's pouring rain as I walk down the alleys to PK's. The water is up to my ankles on one 1/4 mile stretch. Words like 'Swarming' 'teaming' 'infested' 'thank god (ghany) I brought cipro' are running through my mind.
Ewwwww
Masala chai from PK's mom. Sugar quota for the week met.
Maria arrives later today and everyone is anticipating her arrival. Very funny. Actually, amazing. PK tells me his children go to school now because of Maria. Very proud of her!

Wild eyes. Love this guy. Maybe he is the power yoga teacher?

2010-09-03T04:33:00.000-07:00

Bathing in Ma

2010-09-03T04:32:00.000-07:00

Ganga beach!

2010-09-03T04:31:00.000-07:00

I want to jump in!

2010-09-03T04:29:00.000-07:00

Krishna's chariot

2010-09-03T00:27:00.001-07:00

Evening Puja

2010-09-03T00:26:00.001-07:00

No wonder the electricity shuts off every 5 minutes!

2010-09-03T00:23:00.000-07:00

Ganga's black cow

2010-09-03T00:14:00.000-07:00

2010-09-02T23:45:00.001-07:00

My first day has come to a close. I have no idea how it happened, but i smell like an indian man. I never smell like this! Shower
Now I'm cozy in my twin bed. It's only 4 inches thick but much softer than the street. My room has lovely, bare lavendar walls. I think some one painted the trim with a yellow highlighter. This hue is brightened by the single 3 foot long flourescent bulb that hangs on the wall.
I went to an ayuvedic spa called Sanskriti for a 90 minute massage. Amanda P, this is the kind of massage that made you giggle in class. This little Indian woman very kindly had her way with me. It was marvelous. I left dripping with healing Ayurvedic oils. But not before I had a cheese and olive sandwich on the deck overlooking the Ganga.
I seemed to be in a fog for the rest of the day.
PK brought me to see Swami-ji at the ashram. Swami-ji asked me what questions I had for him. I had no questions. I couldn't think of one thing. What kind of question was I supposed to ask! Sitting on his floor with a bald Indian man, save one little pony tail, I just wanted to ask if I could take a nap! He finally just started talking. He told me always go to bed at 8pm.... No way that's going to happen. I'm writing this at 10:30pm... He said to eat at 6pm and if I eat only fruit I will have digested well enough to sleep at 8pm. He then insisted that I try what he has for dinner. I followed him into his kitchen, which smelled like a giant toilet that really needs to be flushed. He peeled a banana and dipped it in ghee. I really don't like ghee. I especially dont like the kind swami-ji made himself from his own cow. He spooned the dripping homemade ghee from his own cow into my mouth and watched me eat it. I've never chewed anything so slowly, hoping that he'd turn his head just long enough for the spit in the hand, put in the pocket move. Actually, that's not true. When I arrived starving in Santorini after a 12 hour ferry ride, the hotel manager offered me his lunch. Stuffed green peppers. My absolute kriptonite. The 'oh no I couldn't eat your lunch!' miserably failed and I forced down the green devil of all foods... Anyway I swallowed the slimy banana and bolted claiming jet lag, which was true! Back to my lavendar palace for a nap.
I went to the evening puja on the river at the giant Shiva statue. A priest came at me with a little red stick, he painted a tilak on my third eye. He grabbed my left hand and pushed flowers and peanuts into it. He told me to hold his tray and grabbed my right hand. He started tying red string around my right wrist asking me to repeat after him. At some point I began to recognize the Gayatri mantra. He made the final knot and demanded 100 ruppees. I guess I got blessed!
PK brought me to his cousins' shops. He has a lot of cousins. The 2 jeweler cousins, the deity selling cousin, the bookstore cousin etc.
Im finally ready to go home so PK has his assistant walk me home 'because it is dark and there are a lot of cows'.
He was right. Lots of cows!

Beauty of India

2010-09-02T03:46:00.001-07:00

Arrival

2010-09-02T03:44:00.000-07:00

Pk says hi!

PK, the guide guru is making his offering to Ma Ganga from his office

window! Chanting and blessing each of the dieties with flowers and

incense occasionally stopping to show me pictures or silence his

phone's incoming calls. I can't ne the ringtone but I'm pretty sure

it's Kenny G.

Today is krishna's birthday! I asked how old he was. Got a good laugh

out of that one!

This is the most beautiful place on earth, second only to matunuck of

course!

My flight was amazingly smooth. I found my driver right away at the

Delhi airport and we set off for our 5 hour ... Turned out to be 8

hour ride to rishikesh. The driver informed me we were in for a lumpy

ride. :)

Driving in India is not recommended for the faint of heart. However,

I was able to sit back, relax and take in the rawness of Ma India.

Barely dodging cars, trucks, rickshaws and motorbikes with a family of

4 comfortably seated.... I closed my eyes and slept quite soundly! I

awoke occasionally to gaze out at the temples and altars. So colorful

and plentiful! The Indians are sleeping on the side of road, on thier

shop steps, on little wheel barrow thingys, all wrapped in sheets

looking like dead bodies.

Arriving at the base of the bridge Ram Julla my driver, Sumit,

informed me that we had come to the end of the road.. Literally, and

now had to walk 3 kilometers to the hotel. Ok.

Some men with an wagon thing stacked my bags and off we went across

Ram Julla. Hello raging Ma Ganga!!!!

On namah shivaya!

If you look down you see piles of fresh cow dung, Indians & cows

sleeping on the road side.

PK just now finished his morning puja and wants to chat.....

Anyway, if you look up you see the Gods. Everywhere. Needless to say I

stepped in shit.

It's amazing, lord Shiva, Hanuman and , Krishna standing regally atop

a simple temple. It's still completely dark but I can hear Ma Ganga to

my right and catch glimpses of her running in the moonlight.

Raj Palace is the hotel. I climbed the stairs to the second floor and

was greeted by a larger than life size banner of Maria. She is a

celebrity here!!....not kidding. My room is small but has a toilet

and AC!

I woke up to PK calling. We had morning coffee .... Bad idea.

Parathas, good idea!!

It's raining here, it has been for quite some time, and it will

continue 'for quite some time'.

Pankaj (pk) prompts me to ride side saddle on the back of his motor

bike. As I climb on the wet seat (thank god and amy for bepresent!) PK

says, now your adventure begins!

Winding side roads leave me completely tuned around and lost ... You

know how good my sense of direction is !!!!!

I caught my first glimpse of the giant giant shiva sitting in the

middle of the Ganga. I've been waiting years to see this 12 foot

statue!! I'm Namha!!

PK is feeding me home made pakoras that his mother just made. The beat

ever!

Maria and her trekking retreat come in tomorrw night. I'm going to get

a massage and shirodhara now!!!

Yeah! I love india!!!!

Om love!

Coral