Saturday, September 18, 2010
Drive thru Temple
> I've been sitting in the jeep on the side of the road for 1 1/2
> hours. Every 20 minutes or so we drive about 100 feet and then stop
> again. The driver just pulled down a video screen from the ceiling
> and a typical bollywood movie is playing. I guess it's a mountain
> traffic jam. Mangal, the driver, barely speaks English. I'm covered
> in road dust and feel like I smoked a carton of diesel fuel filled
> cigarettes.
>
> I woke up this morning at 4am to go to the Vishnu temple. We tried
> to go last night but it closed just as we were about to make it to
> the front of the line.
> This morning Maria and I ran thru the narrow winding streets trying
> our hardest to get to temple when it opened at 4. The plan was to
> go to temple and be in the car for 5:30 so we could get in line to
> make the 6am gate and hit the road. It took us 2 days to drive from
> rishikesh to badrinath. I am trying to make it back to rishikesh in
> one day.
> When we arrived at the festival style lit temple it was 4:45 and
> puja was still happening inside so we were not permitted to enter
> the inner sanctum. We joined the line on the stairs which quickly
> became a very intense mosh pit. People were pushing from all sides.
> Once again demonstrating the Indian perception of space.
>
> 3 hours - -- 2 kilometers. I have finished my book, meditated,
> mantra, done every seated asana I can think of and is possible in
> the back seat of this land rover thing, and completed a sudoko.
>
> 4 hours.
>
> After being shoved for God at our temple attempt we dashed back to
> the ice box ashram. I quickly began bringing the backpacks
> downstairs when all of a sudden I heard running water in the
> bathroom and the bucket sliding across the floor. I barked at Maria,
> "You're taking a bucket!!?" I immediately realized how hysterical
> this was and laughed to myself as she bargained with me behind the
> door for her right to cleanliness.
> Way too much action at this time of day and at this altitude!
> We made the 6 am gate and had spectacular peak sightings as we left
> Badrinath.
> We had planned to stop at the hanuman temple on the way down, but we
> were trying to make it 120k to Karna Prayag by noon.... That's 6
> hours to travel 75 miles.
> Spiraling down to the orange temple signifying the site where
> Hanuman picked up the mountain to bring herbs to his lord Ram, we
> agreed to stop but only for a a quick pranam.
> The driver pulled up to the road side temple and before we could get
> out the priest came to us with the puja tray. We rolled down the
> windows, made our offerings and recieved orange tilaks (forehead
> flair) without even getting out of the car! Jai Hanuman
> We reached Karna Prayag as planned and sadly said our goodbyes. A
> car was waiting to take me south to Rishikesh, Maria was to continue
> on in our car to go east for a few days.
> As I drove away waving out the window to Maria and Rakesh, I was
> reminded of the end of our last adventure together in India. We left
> one another at a train station, she went south and I went west.
>
> I reached Rishikesh 11 hours later. 17 hours total. The very end of
> the road came 6k from Rishikesh. Another landslide. After an hour
> Mangal woke me up and handed me his cell phone. Pankaj to the
> rescue. I hiked past the landslide in the dark with my belongings
> and was met by PK and a new driver. Mangal was to spend the night in
> the car, waiting until the morning for the road to be cleared.
> We arrived at the ram jhula bridge, PK got his scooter and delivered
> me safely to Raj Palace. Home sweet home.
> Best shower of my life!
>
> I'm in Chicago now. It was nice to brush my teeth with water from
> the faucet but I am already home sick for India. Counting the days
> until I return. PK rode with me to the airport after serving me
> lunch in his warm and loving home. Best guide guru you'll ever meet.
> I've got family in India that I will miss dearly.
> Come with me next year as I co-lead the Rishikesh adventure with Ms.
> Maria. It's sure to be unforgettable!
> Thanks for coming along on my pilgrimage to the heart land!!
> Om Namah Shivaya
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> hours. Every 20 minutes or so we drive about 100 feet and then stop
> again. The driver just pulled down a video screen from the ceiling
> and a typical bollywood movie is playing. I guess it's a mountain
> traffic jam. Mangal, the driver, barely speaks English. I'm covered
> in road dust and feel like I smoked a carton of diesel fuel filled
> cigarettes.
>
> I woke up this morning at 4am to go to the Vishnu temple. We tried
> to go last night but it closed just as we were about to make it to
> the front of the line.
> This morning Maria and I ran thru the narrow winding streets trying
> our hardest to get to temple when it opened at 4. The plan was to
> go to temple and be in the car for 5:30 so we could get in line to
> make the 6am gate and hit the road. It took us 2 days to drive from
> rishikesh to badrinath. I am trying to make it back to rishikesh in
> one day.
> When we arrived at the festival style lit temple it was 4:45 and
> puja was still happening inside so we were not permitted to enter
> the inner sanctum. We joined the line on the stairs which quickly
> became a very intense mosh pit. People were pushing from all sides.
> Once again demonstrating the Indian perception of space.
>
> 3 hours - -- 2 kilometers. I have finished my book, meditated,
> mantra, done every seated asana I can think of and is possible in
> the back seat of this land rover thing, and completed a sudoko.
>
> 4 hours.
>
> After being shoved for God at our temple attempt we dashed back to
> the ice box ashram. I quickly began bringing the backpacks
> downstairs when all of a sudden I heard running water in the
> bathroom and the bucket sliding across the floor. I barked at Maria,
> "You're taking a bucket!!?" I immediately realized how hysterical
> this was and laughed to myself as she bargained with me behind the
> door for her right to cleanliness.
> Way too much action at this time of day and at this altitude!
> We made the 6 am gate and had spectacular peak sightings as we left
> Badrinath.
> We had planned to stop at the hanuman temple on the way down, but we
> were trying to make it 120k to Karna Prayag by noon.... That's 6
> hours to travel 75 miles.
> Spiraling down to the orange temple signifying the site where
> Hanuman picked up the mountain to bring herbs to his lord Ram, we
> agreed to stop but only for a a quick pranam.
> The driver pulled up to the road side temple and before we could get
> out the priest came to us with the puja tray. We rolled down the
> windows, made our offerings and recieved orange tilaks (forehead
> flair) without even getting out of the car! Jai Hanuman
> We reached Karna Prayag as planned and sadly said our goodbyes. A
> car was waiting to take me south to Rishikesh, Maria was to continue
> on in our car to go east for a few days.
> As I drove away waving out the window to Maria and Rakesh, I was
> reminded of the end of our last adventure together in India. We left
> one another at a train station, she went south and I went west.
>
> I reached Rishikesh 11 hours later. 17 hours total. The very end of
> the road came 6k from Rishikesh. Another landslide. After an hour
> Mangal woke me up and handed me his cell phone. Pankaj to the
> rescue. I hiked past the landslide in the dark with my belongings
> and was met by PK and a new driver. Mangal was to spend the night in
> the car, waiting until the morning for the road to be cleared.
> We arrived at the ram jhula bridge, PK got his scooter and delivered
> me safely to Raj Palace. Home sweet home.
> Best shower of my life!
>
> I'm in Chicago now. It was nice to brush my teeth with water from
> the faucet but I am already home sick for India. Counting the days
> until I return. PK rode with me to the airport after serving me
> lunch in his warm and loving home. Best guide guru you'll ever meet.
> I've got family in India that I will miss dearly.
> Come with me next year as I co-lead the Rishikesh adventure with Ms.
> Maria. It's sure to be unforgettable!
> Thanks for coming along on my pilgrimage to the heart land!!
> Om Namah Shivaya
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
Fun storming the castle
Destination: Badrinath, home to the Vishnu temple, one of the four most sacred temples in north India
Maria and I wound up 11 thousand feet into the 'higher himalyas' very slowly as the one lane road literally crumbled underneath us and the air quickly became thinner and colder. Rakesh and the driver upfront, Maria and I in the back. Our packs and carom board in the way back. The road to Badrinath, has been closed for days due to landslides and unstable ground. Today the road was very busy escorting hundreds of pilgrims making possibly the trip of a lifetime. Collectively, we form a Spiritual tailgate party, all of us journeying to a common destination. During landslide breaks We shared the road with buses transporting whole villages and cars/land rovers packed with families. Our rover has 4 people, others hold 9-12. No one seems to mind being held up on the side of the road for hours at a time. The scenery is amazing and the vibe is high, some guy walks by singing 'Hari Krishna' as Maria and Rakesh play carom board and thumb wrestle. I read my book and referee the carom board tournament. Rakesh always wins.
Points on driving in India...
The horn is a vital part of driving in India. It isn't used out of annoyance or anger but rather safety and awareness. 'Blow Horn' is painted on the rear of brightly decorated and deity donned trucks. Passing, or 'taking over' happens consistetly and without inducing any road rage or ego inflation. Playing music in the car is illegal as it is a distraction and could drown out the sound of oncoming cars, buses, trucks, cows and monkeys.
Our illegal soundtrack includes Shakira (Rakeshs' request!) Beyonce (Maria's) Jack Johnson, Bob Marley, Michael Franti, Madonna and more.
We arrived in Badrinath a day later than expected. The roads close after dark so we had to stay the night in Karna Prayag. A prayag is a confluence of two rivers. We passed five on our journey. The rivers weave into each other, ultimately they all join with the Ganga. The rivers have different hues, depending on where they are flowing from. The glacial rivers have a bluish green tint. The rivers coming from the west/east have more of a clay base so they look darker and cloudy. Watching them merge is beautiful.
It has taken us 13 hours to travel 118 miles! It's freezing rain here in Badrinath. We are absolutely the only Westerners here. I'm am very ill equipt with my thin fleece sleeping bag. I am wearing all of the clothes that I brought! The roof of the ashram room has a gaping hole in it, basically, we are sleeping outside. It's 38 degrees.
The next morning brought sunshine and the darshan of Mount Neelkanth (shiva's blue throat). The view of this peak at sunrise is truly breath taking. No one has ever climbed this massive mountain. We spent the day trekking to Wasudhara waterfall. 14 k stroll up into the clouds, surrounded by Himalyan peaks.
The legends and mythology of India and her pantheon come to life every moment. On this hike we walked the 'path to heaven'. We followed the path that the 5 Pandava brothers (Mahabarata) climbed on their way to release, signifying the end of the Satyuga beginning of the Kaliyuga. The waterfall is named after one of the brothers. Legend has it that if the spray from the falls reaches you then you are pure.
While practicing yoga the breeze came and showered me (and Rakesh) with the mist. Maria climbed down to sit close to the falls, she brought her umbrella. Funny.
We sat and meditated in the cave where Vyassa spoke the Vedas. And then in Ganesha's cave where he transcribed the Vedas. Epic places and experiences. I'm blessed to have spent time in the north eastern most part of this sacred country. I even went to the 'last tea stand in india'. The Tibetans are beautiful. The days spent here have been monumental. Too much for words. The lessons for me are in the land, not the swamis.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Monday, September 13, 2010
Road Signs
This is a highway not a runway
Drinking and driving is a fatal cocktail
Spread thrills not kills
Life is a journey - complete it
No race No rally enjoy the beauty of the valley
Leave sooner drive slower live longer
Speed thrills but kills
Life is short don't make it shorter
Speed is a knife which kills life
License to drive not fly
Accidents bring tears Safety brings cheers
Hug your kids at home at home but belt them in the car
Blessings
Maria Garre
www.mariagarre.com
Sent from my iPhone
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Driving in India should be a video game
My Grandmother educated me well about the importance of healthy
bowels. I think the cows here eat too much curry. Although, seeing
Maria step in it never gets old. It is quite an experience; It seems
like you've taken a normal step but all of a sudden you are launched
ahead as if on a slip and slide. Before you know it you are three
steps ahead of yourself. I guess it's helpful if you're in a hurry!
Lots of folks on the trip have received 'cosmic counseling' from this
one particular 'Swami'. This swami happens to love Facebook, charges
$50 and then recommends you buy a certain gem stone of which he then
recieves a commission. There is value to his counsel I am sure, but I
passed on the offer. But Facebook can't be an indicator of a fake
swami. The real swami at the ashram next door is an avid FB'er. How
does one even become a Swami? Is it like being knighted? Is there an
exam?...some kind of aptitude test? I'll have to ask Rakesh or PK.
We have gone on some great hikes Yesterday we drove 4 hours and hiked
4k up a 75% grade to reach a temple for Hanuman that has great views
of several peaks. The clouds obscured the peaks but it was beautiful
to be IN the clouds.
Maria and I leave tomorrow for our trek north to Badrinath, we have
been Praying for peaks, sunshine and blue skies! We are going to the
last tea stall in India.
I just spent 20 minutes trying to get tumeric for my Ginger lemon tea
(which actually isn't tea, it's literally Ginger, lemon and honey in
hot water) How does an Indian not understand the word tumeric!!! It
will be a miracle if I don't get sick. Everyone except for my
roommate Natalie and I have had a fever and respiratory infection.
I'm taking ao many herbs and vitamins to counter all of the time spent
in a car with sick people every day.
Driving back from wherever we were yesterday it was pouring rain as we
wound down the mountain. There were landslides that happened while we
were up top. It looked like a completely different road/ path on the
way down. We were having sing alongs to old school Prince and Madonna
in our car. I know every single word to multiple Prince songs. I was
shocked and others were impressed. Thanks Suzanne! The second car
didn't have as much fun. They almost skidded off the road, their
accelerator broke and they nearly hit a mule.
We had our closing dinner last night on the rooftop. I tasted the
absolute worst dessert in the entire universe. It was a white sponge-
like, sugar liquid soaked/filled ball. If you ever see anything like
this nasty mass of goo give it to the nearest cow and run.
Maria and I are off the the mountains for the next 5 days. Pray for
blue skies and peaks!!!!
bowels. I think the cows here eat too much curry. Although, seeing
Maria step in it never gets old. It is quite an experience; It seems
like you've taken a normal step but all of a sudden you are launched
ahead as if on a slip and slide. Before you know it you are three
steps ahead of yourself. I guess it's helpful if you're in a hurry!
Lots of folks on the trip have received 'cosmic counseling' from this
one particular 'Swami'. This swami happens to love Facebook, charges
$50 and then recommends you buy a certain gem stone of which he then
recieves a commission. There is value to his counsel I am sure, but I
passed on the offer. But Facebook can't be an indicator of a fake
swami. The real swami at the ashram next door is an avid FB'er. How
does one even become a Swami? Is it like being knighted? Is there an
exam?...some kind of aptitude test? I'll have to ask Rakesh or PK.
We have gone on some great hikes Yesterday we drove 4 hours and hiked
4k up a 75% grade to reach a temple for Hanuman that has great views
of several peaks. The clouds obscured the peaks but it was beautiful
to be IN the clouds.
Maria and I leave tomorrow for our trek north to Badrinath, we have
been Praying for peaks, sunshine and blue skies! We are going to the
last tea stall in India.
I just spent 20 minutes trying to get tumeric for my Ginger lemon tea
(which actually isn't tea, it's literally Ginger, lemon and honey in
hot water) How does an Indian not understand the word tumeric!!! It
will be a miracle if I don't get sick. Everyone except for my
roommate Natalie and I have had a fever and respiratory infection.
I'm taking ao many herbs and vitamins to counter all of the time spent
in a car with sick people every day.
Driving back from wherever we were yesterday it was pouring rain as we
wound down the mountain. There were landslides that happened while we
were up top. It looked like a completely different road/ path on the
way down. We were having sing alongs to old school Prince and Madonna
in our car. I know every single word to multiple Prince songs. I was
shocked and others were impressed. Thanks Suzanne! The second car
didn't have as much fun. They almost skidded off the road, their
accelerator broke and they nearly hit a mule.
We had our closing dinner last night on the rooftop. I tasted the
absolute worst dessert in the entire universe. It was a white sponge-
like, sugar liquid soaked/filled ball. If you ever see anything like
this nasty mass of goo give it to the nearest cow and run.
Maria and I are off the the mountains for the next 5 days. Pray for
blue skies and peaks!!!!
Sent from my iPhone
Buckets are important
My favorite part of breakfast is the white toast with butter served at
the Ashram. I don't know why it's so good or what they so to it, but
it is incredible. Would you believe out of all the chapadi, naan and
parathas, that the best bread I've had is white toast with butter,
"butter toast". It's either because I haven't had white bread in
years or because they put some kind of goddess fairy dust on it.
Buckets are important. Very important. I do my laundry in my bucket,
throw the TP in a bucket (advice from Amy: don't confuse the
buckets). When cooking, the bucket is your vegetable washer, your
compost pile, and hand washer. A smaller bucket replenishes water to
this large bucket. It took Rakesh 3 hours to cook dinner on his two
burner propane stove. Absolutely everything was made from scratch.
Pakoras and chapadi from wheat flour and water. Garlic & Ginger made
into a paste using a rolling pin. Potatoes, rice and dal are cooked in
a pressure cooker, done in 3 whistles! Tomatoes are placed directly on
the flame and then in the bucket, then peeled and smushed by hand. I
learned another (uncooked) tomato purée method in cooking class with
PK's wife ... use a grater, everything but the skin ends up grated
as if it just came out of food processor. The vegetables are all fresh
and local. If it isn't growing here, you aren't eating it.
the Ashram. I don't know why it's so good or what they so to it, but
it is incredible. Would you believe out of all the chapadi, naan and
parathas, that the best bread I've had is white toast with butter,
"butter toast". It's either because I haven't had white bread in
years or because they put some kind of goddess fairy dust on it.
Buckets are important. Very important. I do my laundry in my bucket,
throw the TP in a bucket (advice from Amy: don't confuse the
buckets). When cooking, the bucket is your vegetable washer, your
compost pile, and hand washer. A smaller bucket replenishes water to
this large bucket. It took Rakesh 3 hours to cook dinner on his two
burner propane stove. Absolutely everything was made from scratch.
Pakoras and chapadi from wheat flour and water. Garlic & Ginger made
into a paste using a rolling pin. Potatoes, rice and dal are cooked in
a pressure cooker, done in 3 whistles! Tomatoes are placed directly on
the flame and then in the bucket, then peeled and smushed by hand. I
learned another (uncooked) tomato purée method in cooking class with
PK's wife ... use a grater, everything but the skin ends up grated
as if it just came out of food processor. The vegetables are all fresh
and local. If it isn't growing here, you aren't eating it.
Sent from my iPhone
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Temples Temples Temples
I realized today amount of steps that I have taken since I arrived in
India is greater than the amount I have taken since I broke my foot
in January.
The last couple of days we have gone to some amazing Shiva temples.
These temples tell the stories that I have read and told and loved.
The kankal temple tells the story of Shiva and Pavarti, her suicide
and his anguish. The temple is built around the fire pit upon which
she threw herself.
India is greater than the amount I have taken since I broke my foot
in January.
The last couple of days we have gone to some amazing Shiva temples.
These temples tell the stories that I have read and told and loved.
The kankal temple tells the story of Shiva and Pavarti, her suicide
and his anguish. The temple is built around the fire pit upon which
she threw herself.
This is also the birth place of goddess Sati. (incarnation of Parvati)
The Chandresvara temple is where Shiva visited Chandra to grant his
request that he be with Shiva always, hence the portrayal of the
crescent moon on Shiva's head. We had a huge puja there. Puja galore.
With a really hot Vedic preist. The ceremony was about 2 1/2 hours.
After Maria anointed, baathed and dressed the murtis we gathered
around the lingam for Rudrabhisekh puja... Basically this means BIG
Shiva Puja. Lots of detailed ritual. My seat positioned me at the
drain on the lingam, so as it was bathed in milk, ghee, water,
sandalwood paste, flowers etc... So was I. Sandlwood paste and
flowers, great. Milk and water, ick. By the end I was sitting in a
puddle of whitish water. Yuck, but holy yuck I suppose.
Chandra Devi temple is like an amusemnt park and depicts the ten
incarnations of Sati. We rode a gondola up to the temples! Its
located in one of the national parks so the greenery was vast and
beautiful. Deer and monkey siting in the ride up and spectacular
sunset on the way down. Rakesh threw down with a puja offering
vendor because she was trying to cheat us out of some money.
His chest got very puffy, it was comical.
I played catch with a monkey at the Anjenay temple (hanuman's mom)
I tossed a coconut and a monkey came swooping in and caught it. Most
of the monkeys are about the same size. This was the king kong monkey.
I was handing the normal size monkeys treats when he came out of the
brush barreling toward me. I threw my coconut and retreated with a hop
and a skip. He jumped up, caught my coconut and took off. It was
hilarious.
The NeelKanth temple which is situated where Shiva took refuge after
he drank the poison from the churning of the ocean. Pavratri gathered
everyone to support and cheer him and then festival shivatri was
created.
Lovely day !!!
Sent from my iPhone
Friday, September 10, 2010
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
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